Berlin With Kids - Advice From a Local

I want to extend a huge "thank you" to Rebecca, a reader from Germany who generously offered to share her best tips about what to do in Berlin.

These tips are based on my experience as a resident of Berlin for 11 years. They have a definite bias toward the western part of the city, as this is where I lived. Before I get to the activities, I want to share two potential dangers to avoid in Berlin: dog poop and bikes. Hazards even for natives, they are particularly dangerous to unsuspecting tourists, especially for mini-tourists!

Bike lanes are generally found on the sidewalks, not on the streets. They are often – but not always – made of red bricks. Cyclists in Berlin believe that anyone standing in a bike lane has a death wish, and see it as their duty to fulfill this wish. Visitors should exercise particular caution when exiting vehicles: bike lanes are at the edge of the sidewalk closest to the road, which means that anyone getting out of a car or bus will find him- or herself in a bike lane. Check the bike lane for approaching cyclists while getting out of the vehicle and cross quickly over to the pedestrian walkway.

Despite pooper-scooper laws, dog poop is everywhere in Berlin. On a recent trip to Berlin, I wheeled a baby carriage through the dark streets in the early evening. Upon returning to my friend’s apartment, I discovered that I had rolled the carriage through poop. Yuck! Dog poop is particularly treacherous for toddlers, who obliviously run through it in the streets, sit in it in the sandbox or even stick their hands in it while picking up an interesting twig. To keep clean in Berlin, constant vigilance is unfortunately an absolute must.

Having issued these two warnings, I can assure you that Berlin is a wonderful city with a lot to offer for families with children. Here are some of my recommendations for fun and interesting places to go with kids.

Berlin Zoo
A huge, beautiful and well-maintained zoo near the Ku’damm shopping street. The current star of the zoo is of course Knut the polar bear. The Berlin Aquarium is next to the zoo and also worth a trip. You can buy a single ticket for both attractions.

Potsdamer Platz
Potsdamer Platz existed in no-man’s land during the post-war period, up until the fall of the Berlin Wall. Since then, it has been developed into a super-modern entertainment, business and shopping center. Highlights include the Sony Center: go after dark to appreciate its spectacular roof, which changes colors every minute or so. Kids will enjoy the IMAX movie theater and the whole family will appreciate the English-language movie showings on rainy days or when everyone needs a dose of home culture.

Berlin Wall
Although the Wall fell in 1989, several sections remain standing in Berlin (although I have the impression that they are still being surreptitiously chipped away). Older children might be interested in this glimpse of Berlin’s history. This web site offers an English-language overview of the history of the Wall and directs visitors to sections that are still standing.

Museum at Checkpoint Charlie
Checkpoint Charlie was one of the points at which one could officially cross from East to West. The spot is now home to a fascinating (although somewhat expensive and grubby) museum documenting the history of the Berlin Wall and detailing spectacular escapes from East Berlin. Exhibit items include cars, suitcases, parachutes and other equipment used in these flights from Communist Germany. The museum will only be interesting to older children.

Charlottchen
This restaurant is the place to go in the western part of the city for a meal with small children. Parents can sit and relax while their children have fun in the large play area, which is next to the tables, making it easy to keep an eye on the kids. The cleanliness of the place isn’t quite up to American standards, but it’s a Berlin institution and the food is generally tasty and reasonably priced. Staffing is through a program which integrates physically and mentally handicapped people into the work force.

Lakes and forests
Berlin is surprisingly green. The western part of the city is home to the Grunewald forest, which contains several beautiful lakes with reservoir-quality water. In the summer, the lakes offer a wonderful opportunity to take a refreshing swim; no admission is charged. The lake called Krumme Lanke is probably the most popular, as it features tiny "beaches" where it’s possible to stretch out on a towel in the sand (if you can find a free spot). Schlachtensee is more beautiful and quiet, but you will generally have to throw your towel over a tree branch; there are very few areas where it’s possible to sit. Grunewaldsee is nice for taking walks, but don’t swim in it: it’s where Berliners bring their dogs for a dip (and a fun place to go for dog-watching).

If you would like to share your favorite places in your city, or in a destination you have visited, please send me email: debbie at deliciousbaby dot com

Have you been to Berlin with kids? What were your favorite activities, restaurants and hotels? Let me know in comments.

Related Links
Berlin With Kids
Planning A Family Vacation

3 comments | Posted on December 2, 2008 | Save to del.icio.us

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